KGB

KGB (kā'jē-bē') n. 1. The intelligence and internal security agency of the former Soviet Union.
2. Hot new restaurant in Paris’ 6th arrondissement.

While the Cold War references are hard to ignore, this KGB is a far cry from Russian intelligence. The K stands for Kitchen, the G for Galerie and the B for “Bis,” which, in French, means the annex to an address (“13, bis” would be the equivalent of apartment “13A” in English for example). This offshoot of William Ledeuil’s Michelin-starred Ze Kitchen Galerie, is just down the street from its mother restaurant on the quaint rue des Grands Augustins in St Germain-des-pres. The restaurant features Ledeuil’s famously fabulous cooking – think: modern French cuisine with an Asian twist – only in a more relaxed, casual setting with more relaxed, casual prices to match. The KGB also offers “zors d’oeuvres,” small tapas based on the chef’s daily whims to sample before the main courses arrive. Some recent favorites have been a langoustine thai broth with shellfish, a cream soup with mushrooms, raw black tiger shrimp with ginger and radishes, a lamb croquette and a beef ravioli. The bite-sized portions are enough for just one mouthful, but a great way to sample a variety of textures an flavors before the main event begins. While the new spot has only been open for a few weeks, the KGB has already changed its menu to gear up for the changing season. The chef offers a market special every night based on the freshest ingredients of the day – last night was a pan-fried red mullet fish served with delectable vegetables and citrus fruits. Cod, rabbit, lamb and squid tempura are among this month’s entrees. Many of the main courses are served in piping hot “cocottes,” ceramic pots offering one-dish wonders to regale your taste buds. Make sure to save room for the adventurous, and always delicious desserts – poached pear with curcuma and a white chocolate-peppermint ice cream or roasted figs with cherry ice cream, for example – which are très petit, but the perfect way to end the meal with a small sweet note. A few “zors d’oeuvres,” an entrée, a dessert and a glass of wine will cost you around 50 euros per person, a small price to pay for one of the tastiest, most interesting meals the city has to offer. The chef’s last name “Ledeuil,” in French means “mourning” and, when you walk out the door after dinner, you’ll be mourning the end of one of the best meals you’ve had in awhile. Make sure to reserve ahead – though the KGB just opened, it’s already packed every night. If you’re six or more, ask for the chef’s table in the back of the room, which offers a more private, “VIP” dining space. A Michelin-starred chef, a trendy yet relaxed décor, delectable cuisine and not-so-lavish prices (all around the corner from chez moi, may I add)? I can’t KGBelieve it !

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COCOCOOK

“Cococook!” Coco cook? Who’s Coco? What is she cooking? Ladies and gentlemen, prepare yourselves for the arrival of revolutionary – well, not quite revolutionary, but quite a step forward for Paris, France, the land of steak frites and no room in the dictionary for a linguistic equivalent to “doggy bag” – new concept in cuisine, Cococook. The new spot on the rue Charlot offers takeout and delivery to the 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th arrondissements. Cococook serves up fresh, local ingredients in the form of healthy and balanced salads, sandwiches, main courses and desserts from 11:30 am to 11 pm every day of the week. Order a quinoa salad with pomegranate and grilled almonds or a “Sandwich Cococlub” (bacon, eggs, mayo and tarragon) to the office at noon, or pick up a plate of roasted chicken with quinoa, green beans and almond milk or a milanese with vegetables and pesto on your way home at night. The French cuisine with an Asian touch offers an eclectic array of both meaty and veggie options sure to please even the most difficult palates – think: soba noodles with edamame and a peanut sauce, a mushroom, spinach and ginger frittata and several varieties of “croquettes,” little meatball-like balls filled with chick peas, peas and cauliflower, mackerel or sweet potatoes and baked in the oven. The desserts are a delectably sweet end to the meal – don’t miss the pumpkin and vanilla cheesecake, the chamomile and almond cake or the panna cotta with black sesame. Check out the menu @ www.cococook.fr. Fresh and healthy food at reasonable prices ready to take out asap or delivered right to your door (if you live or work in the 1st-4th arrondissements, that is) ? It’s enough to give you a bon HAPPYtit!

Top 10 Things I love about Paris in September

1. “La Rentrée”



La Rentrée [ratre] nf. 1. The period marking the end of the summer and the beginning of back-to-work and back-to-school for the entire city of Paris after weeks to months of vacation. 2. In Paris, in July and August – and especially August – inhabitants flee like lemmings to vacation destinations across the country and the globe. Restaurants close, nightclubs shut down and even the most animated of neighborhoods start to resemble ghost towns. The narrow streets of the city are empty other than the pitter patter of tourists’ feet and the occasional loud Texan saying “Naw where is that Aiiiiifulll Tawr.” Then, suddenly, starting the last week of August, those same streets begin to fill up with French-speakers, restaurants re-open their doors, the parties start again and new TV seasons get underway. Not to mention that, in France, the big US summer blockbusters all wait to hit theaters until this time of year so there is entertainment to be had. Bookstores overflow with the latest from “La Rentrée Littéraire,” when hundreds of new books hit the shelves. La Rentrée is one of few times of year when many Parisians are actually – gasp! – smiling ! Yes, whether it’s love or simply optimism, something is in the air as September rolls around. That same nasty neighbor who snarled at you in June is now smiling (and quite tanned, may I add). A new year is about to begin and there’s an incredible energy everywhere – Paris is a different city. There’s something to be said about a Parisian with a tan and a smile (and it’s not “rude”). As they say here, “Il faut quitter Paris pour mieux le retrouver.” Which translates roughly to “You need to leave Paris in order to appreciate it more.” As much as Paris can be suffocating at times, especially during those last weeks of June or early July when the humidity turns the city into a broiling sauna filled with smelly French people and hoards of tourists, every time I leave and come back, I’m reminded of what a magical place it is. During La Rentrée, most of the city has left and returned, and everyone shares this sentiment of “wow, I forgot how beautiful this place is.” Of course, this is only a momentary blast of optimism before the cold, dark late Fall/early winter months arrive, but I say, enjoy it while it lasts – Vive la Rentrée !

2. “Julie&Julia”





“I just feel so French. I just must BE!” Meryl Streep, playing Julia Child, tells her husband (Stanley Tucci) in Nora Ephron’s summer hit film “Julie & Julia.” Julia Child’s story is very much like my own – fabulously wealthy with a loving, perfect husband … I’d say we’re two of a kind. It’s the story of a very tall American woman who moves to France, discovers a passion for cooking (and eating) and writes. Aside from the fact that Ms. Child happens to become a best-selling author, transforms the way America cooks and influences the entire country still to this day. Julie & Julia” hits French theaters on Sept. 16, after a premiere at the Deauville American Film Festival earlier in the month. The film follows Julia Child as she embarks on a culinary romp through France and cuts on and off to a parallel story of a young blogger in Queens who attempts to cook all of Julia Child’s recipes in 2002. While the film would have been much better had Ephron chosen to simply focus on the former (Amy Adams is a not-so-tasty side dish to Streep’s main course, and the viewer spends the entire time she is on screen anxiously waiting to get back to Meryl in Paris in the 1940s/50s), “Julie&Julia” is a delicious sampling of French cuisine with a distinct American flavor. It’s Paris filmed by Hollywood for American audiences, and all of the clichés associated with our favorite Frogs are accentuated as expected, but Streep is a joy to watch, Stanley Tucci is fabulous and the food itself, so wonderfully shot, is a star in its own right. I don’t recommend seeing the film on an empty stomach – the close-ups of all of the buttery, creamy goodness of French cuisine will make your stomach moan (and that obnoxious French lady next to you likely moan as well – Remember, this is France, and “a movie” and “a big tub of popcorn” are mutually exclusive).


3. Le Montana



If you were expecting an American bar with moose heads on the wall, beer on tap and a crowd of muscular men sporting t-shirts and baseball caps, think again. THIS Montana is the French hipster scene’s version of Montana. (Read: no moose, champagne glasses aplenty and men wearing tight pants with gel in their hair whose last workout consisted of walking across the street to buy a pack of cigarettes). Situated right next to 6th arrondissement hub the Café de Flore, le Montana opened last Fall and has been attracting the crème-de-la-crème of the left bank (and their reluctantly accommodating right bank friends who agree to a trans-Seine-lantic voyage) ever since. Le Montana is “Le Baron” (trendy hipster sceney club by Alma Marceau) all grown up. Opened by king of nightlife Andre and the (self-proclaimed) king of cool, Jean-Yves Le Fur, Le Montana has been attracting the fashion crowd, the media crowd and the arty crowd since it opened during fashion week. Guests – who often include celebs like Sofia Coppola’s hubby Tomas Mars, Milla Jovovich or Dita von Teese – can sip cocktails upstairs in the très chill bar or, after a few drinks, may opt to dance the night away on the dance floor downstairs. Finally, the Germanopratin”* [*term designating inhabitants of the 6th arrondissement who rarely leave said neighborhood and frequent its establishments notably the Café de Flore and its environs] community can rejoice – “Left Bank chic” is back in style. (And it’s right around the corner from my apartment, even better!)

4. The Deauville American Film Festival




Less than a two-hour train ride from Paris, Deauville is the perfect stop for cinephiles during it’s two-week annual September film festival. The 35th edition runs September 4th-13th in the Normandy seaside town. Harrison Ford will be the fest’s 2009 guest of honor and Andy Garcia and Robin Wright Penn are also expected in town for career hommages. Contrary to other more fascist film festivals (cough cough – Cannes – cough cough Toronto), screenings are accessible and open to the public. Some highlights from this years edition include more commercial fare such as “Julie & Julia,”
Marc Webb's "500 Days of Summer," Gerard Butler starrer "Gamer,” David Hollander's "Personal Effects" with Michelle Pfeiffer and Ashton Kutcher, Anne Fletcher's "The Proposal" and and Michael Meredith's "The Open Road" with Jeff Bridges and Justin Timberlake. Festgoers can also catch screenings of films that gained critical acclaim at other festivals like Cannes or Sundance such as Ang Lee’s “Taking Woodstock,” Lynn Shelton's "Humpday" and Lee Daniels' "Precious." Deauville's Uncle Sam's Docs sidebar will show seven documentaries including Robert Kenner's buzzed-about "Food, Inc." and R.J. Cutler's "The September Issue." Like the films in selection, the stars in Deauville are also more accessible than usual. Don’t be surprised to catch Matt Damon drinking a beer in the Hotel Royale lobby, see Harrison Ford and Calista F. going for a morning jog on the beach or bump into Meryl Streep on your way out of a seafood restaurant. The short train ride from Paris to Deauville is a great way to see the countryside and a convenient day trip or weekend getaway.

5. “L’Affaire Farewell”



“L’Affaire Farewell” stars Guillaume Canet and – well, do you actually need another reason to go see it when it hits French screens on Sept 23 ? Okay, so perhaps not everyone shares my huge crush on Canet, but there’s no denying the actor’s talent. “L’Affaire Farewell,” a political thriller from director Christian Carion (“Merry Christmas”) follows a KGB officer in Moscow in the 80s whose actions hastened the fall of the USSR. The film co-stars the talented Emir Kusturica and gives audiences a complicated and engaging yet not too esoteric story told in English, French and Russian. The suspenseful spy movie also features an all-star supporting cast including Willem Dafoe, Alexandra Maria Lara and Niels Arestrup. Make sure to say hello to “Farewell.”


6. Rose Bakery

As Edith Piaf once said, “Je vois la vie en Rooooooooose.” I certainly see la vie en … Rose Bakery. The bakery / eatery, co-owned by a British woman (Rose) and her husband, is a Franco-Anglo-Saxon twist on all things breakfast, lunch and brunch. The original Rose Bakery is located on the quaint rue des Martyrs in the 9th arrondissement and has expanded to a second location in the “Haut Marais” on the rue Debelleyme. Rose serves up the best brunch in town, but doesn’t take reservations, so expect to wait for a long time, unless you arrive on a Saturday or Sunday before noon (as I’ve learned to do). You can dine inside or opt to take away the fresh salads of the day, homemade mini-quiches or delectable scones and cakes. The staff at le Marais location are cheery and friendly and the housemade bread and butter are reason alone to head over. Both the more Japanese-influenced fare at the Marais location or the more British homestyle cuisine at the original rue des Martyrs spot use fresh ingredients, organic veggies and serve both meat and vegetarian options. The specials change every day, so even the most loyal customers (cough, cough) are forced to try new things and taste the season’s freshest ingredients. And, at reasonable prices relative to the quality (think: 12,50 euros for a quiche or pizzette and side salads or 13 euros for a cheese scone and scrambled eggs or around 3-4 euros for a dessert tart or cake), I continue to see the world through Rose-colored plates.

7. St Germain-des-pres / The 6th arrondissement

Hey you – yes, you, old French lady about to get on the 87 bus with a big bag of groceries from l’Epicerie at the Bon Marche on one arm and a cane on the other – have you heard about a little something called THE GLOBAL ECONOMIC CRISIS? Actually, no, Madame La Riche hasn’t heard, nor have any of her neighbors apparently. The streets of Saint Germain-des-pres are filled with consumers of all ages buying clothes and bags, splurging on 3-course meals in restaurants, and sipping ridiculously overprices coffees at Café de Flore. Yes, Mesdames and messieurs, “You’ve just crossed over into the Twilight Zone…” (cue the eerie music). You're traveling through another dimension, a dimension not only of sight and sound, but of mind. A journey into a wondrous land called St Germain-des-pres whose boundaries are that of imagination. That's the signpost up ahead - your next stop, the Bon Marché department store. There, you’ll see strange things like plump wallets bursting at the seams, people smiling and – gasp! – aliens from another dimension trying to mingle with local shopkeepers (oh sorry, those are just tourists again). At first, I figured that these people who have the time to shop at 3 in the afternoon on a weekday must have been victims of the financial crisis and are simply unemployed with nothing else to do. Then, I saw them do peculiar things like not checking the price of something before putting it in their shopping carts or buying four Louis Vuitton bags at one time. These do not look like the symptoms of unemployment/poverty to me. (I’m no money doctor, but I can diagnose a bad case of Imoutofajob-itis almost immediately.) It’s uncanny, I tell you. It’s the fifth dimension over here on the Left Bank – no one seems to be struggling to make ends meet. There’s always food on the table and little old ladies with golden canes and bags of $15 apples getting on buses. I keep waiting for Rod Serling to pop out and ask if I’d like to have a steak frites with him down the street.

8. Sundays at the Organic Market, Blvd. Raspail

I am a reformed Sunday-hater. While I used to dread the day when everything in Paris closed, when none of my friends were awake before noon (or before 5 pm – you know who you are) and when the next day to look forward to was, my second least-favorite day of the week, Monday, return to work. Lately, however, I have learned to love le Dimanche, thanks, in part, to the organic market on the Boulevard Raspail. From the wee early hours of the morning through early afternoon, farmers from all over France make the trek to Paris to share their organic fruits, vegetables, breads, cheeses and even wine with the Parisian population. (or rather, the more economically stable, healthy food loving population of Paris since all of the goods there are very VEP (very expensive produce)) The market is always bustling with people – mostly Raspail veterans who come with their baskets on wheels to stock up on fresh fruits and veggies for the week, but also some tourists. The stand owners are typically very friendly – probably because most aren’t from Paris – and usually volunteer samples of the week’s freshest fruit, or a sliver of the day’s apple tart so that a young American girl can taste it before she decides to invest (it was delicious. Investment made.)

9. Paris Fashion Week





It happens around six times a year. Suddenly, the entire city appears to be invaded by tall, leggy creatures with bobbing heads and obscenely dark eyelashes. There are no taxis in sight, no rooms available at the Ritz and not an empty table to be found at the Hotel Costes. And – holy merde! – an alien with a leather skirt is attacking the Plaza Athenée! (oops, don’t worry, that was just Victoria Beckham on her way back from lunch.) Paris Fashion Week - the Spring/Summer 2010 Ready-to-Wear collections that is – will kick off on Sept.30. For those working in fashion, this means days of running (or if you’re Anna Wintour or someone of a certain status, not running but rather, driven in a private car by a chauffeur named Pierre-Jeeves) from one show to the next and from one cocktail party to another. For those NOT working in fashion (cough cough) this means a few days of “really, really ridiculously good-looking” people-watching, a few more fun events than usual and a champagne-induced hangover leaving everyone Haut Cout-SORE. While the parties have been a bit more reserved (they never served food anyway, but now they’re being a tad stingy on the champagne) in the wake of the global financial crisis, Paris Fashion Week stills manages to attract fashion magazine editors, models and movie stars from across the globe. The Ready-to-Wear collections (which, may I add, are only ready to be worn by about 3% of the very, very rich population but are still more wallet-friendly and “wearable” than the couture shows) run through October 8th and, while you’ll need invites to the shows and parties, have a drink at the Hotel Costes or the Café de Flore and you’ll run into the très chic fashionistas (and fashionistos) from all over the world.

10. Carla and Nick

Because the Obamas couldn’t be the ONLY très chic and supercool first couple in the world.



PS Clip of moi talking about Michael Jackson on France 24:

http://www.france24.com/en/20090903-focus-michael-jackson-business-legacy-king-pop-record-sales-

Chicsetera Profile

http://www.chicsetera.com/en/profiles/la-fleur-de-paris-meets-chicsetera.com.html

10 Things I love in Paris (and Bordeaux!) This Week

1.DJing





I’ve found my true calling. If a career in writing fails (see: the catastrophic state of the global world of journalism at the moment), I’ve found plan B: DJ ! Last Monday, I invaded the Cha Cha club with my sister (visiting Paris for a few days) and nightlife photographer/ DJ extraordinaire Jean Picon for “Les Américaines à ChaCha.” The crowd (yes, we had quite the crowd for a Monday night in early summer I might add) danced to our wonderful musical selection, and fun was had by all. Cha cha cha !

2. The Hotel Regent in Bordeaux


The Hotel Regent is the recently-opened 5-star hotel in the center of Bordeaux. I had the opportunity to stay a few nights in a “junior suite,” a vast and cozy space complete with comfortable beds, a re-done, modern bathroom, not to mention a welcome kit with wine and caneles (a Bordélaise dessert specialty). The hotel is located in the town’s center, so is a convenient place to stay, and also boasts a gorgeous view of the city. Extra points for the incredible buffet breakfast, one of the best I’ve had (and I’ve had many). The staff were charming – I highly recommend this spot for a trip to Bordeaux.

3. Gravelier Restaurant (Bordeaux)






Ratatouille would have been jealous. My sister and I had a birds-eye view of the kitchen at Gravelier restaurant in Bordeaux. Located on the Cours de Verdun in the heart of Bordeaux, Gravelier offers some of the most flavorful, inventive – and surprisingly affordable – cooking in the city. We opted for the 39 euro prix-fixe menu, with a choice of two appetizers, four main courses and two desserts, just enough to give choice, but also force diners to be somewhat adventurous. We both started with a “vive piquante,” a filet of cold white fish served with a delectable mint-infused sauce and steamed langoustines in a mayonnaise-like creamy sauce. Then, my sister had the “galette estival de boeuf” (seasonal beef tart) which arrived in the form of thin slices of beef cooked to perfection atop a paper-thin pastry crust, with colorful vegetables, arugula and parmesan. I had the duck, served in savory chunks, with fresh cherries, a sweet and savory cherry sauce and accompanied by small, warm mini-cakes filled with sweet potatoes and vegetables. Both were simply divine. Our dessert was a “blanc en neige,” a soft, meringue-like white sugary ball on a skewer with marinated apricots and served with an apricot nectar sauce and warm chocolate sauce (mine came “sans chocolat” as requested of course!) The petit fours for dessert served with the coffee were also worth overcaffeinating oneself just to try them. The staff were warm and welcoming, and I highly recommend asking for the 2-3 seats at “le bar” to watch the chefs in action. Gravelier is closed Saturday and Sunday nights, and also offers a 28 euro menu serving the chef’s selection of the night or a 60-euro “menu carte blanche” including two fish appetizers, a meat dish, a cheese plate, a “pre-dessert” and a dessert and advertised as “trust the chef!” I certainly do trust the chef after our wonderful meal there and will be sure to return next time I’m in the city.

4. Le Gabriel (Bordeaux)







Thanks to Madame Gravelier (owner of Gravelier, bien sûr), my sister, Erica, and I also discovered a wonderful Bordeaux spot, on the night after it opened ! Le Gabriel, new three-story bar, bistro and restaurant located in the center of Bordeaux’s Place de la Bourse overlooking the fountain and the river, opened the night before we dined there. Le Gabriel is run by chef Francois Adamski, a former chef in Bourges at a Michelin-starred restaurant, who has since settled in Bordeaux in an attempt to earn himself a star. Adamski was named "Meilleur Ouvrier de France" in 2007 and earned the famed "Bocuse d'Or" in 2001. He's taken his Bourges crew with him to the kitchen, but has a whole new look for the restaurant. "We had the different floors to work with - we had to imagine different things we could do with them," Adamski told me. On the first floor is a cozy bar area, complete with outdoor terrace for drinks or afternoon coffees when the weather is nice. On the second floor, a more affordable "bistro" (they call it a bistro, but it looks more like a très chic petit restaurant) offers lower-priced variations on traditional French fare. On the top floor is le restaurant gastronomique. The bistro seats around 80 guests and the restaurant just 30 lucky diners. The brand new establishment took just five months to work to complete. Adamski told me he is aiming for "simplicity and elegance" with Le Gabriel. The name "Le Gabriel" comes from the architect who designed the building back in the 1800s. We dined with a lovely view of the Place de la Bourse and the fountain, and we happened to be there on the night the city was celebrating the 75th anniversary of the French Air France. We stood on the balcony and watched as fighter planes flew overhead and the former head of Bordeaux’s Air Force retired during a traditional ceremony. A uniformed band played “La Marseillaise” as crowds gathered around to watch – it was extraordinary. Chef Adamski came out to give us a private tour of the restaurant and I saw his sous-chefs at work in the kitchen. They even gave him the famous “oui, chef!” when he placed an order. The food was, quite simply, fabulous. An amuse-bouche of a tomato stuffed with zucchini, eggplant and parmesan served with a crunchy cheese cracker awakened our taste buds, complemented with a choice of whole grain or white bread served with a sweet, delicious, fresh butter. For a starter, we both had the langoustines, cooked to perfection in a sweet and savory, thick mustard and passion fruit sauce with a little wasabi kick and fresh mango. I had the John Dory fish, served with a white wine cream sauce over a couscous "semoule" with cilantro and lemon confit, and my sister had a macadamia-crusted marlin with rice-stuffed cabbage. For dessert, I had roasted peach (cooked with the pit still in which, as the chef told me, adds flavor) served over a warm pistachio molten cake and verveine ice cream. My sister had a “vacherin” served with a meringue-like cold ice cream in peach, pistachio and almond flavors. The petit fours for dessert – macarons, financiers and dark chocolate truffles – were délicieux also. Big thanks to Chef Adamski for a wonderful meal, a personal tour of the premesis and a sneak-peek at the just-opened and not-yet reviewed (until now!) establishment. A bientôt !


5. Palais de Party (Ephemeral Club in Palais Tokyo – “Le Club Sans Nom”)






As we all know, the cooler a place, the less information one has about it. All of the hot spots in NY and Paris don’t even usually have a sign on the door, you’re just expected to know where they are. And now, to top off this trend, comes “Le Club Sans Nom” (“The Club Without a Name”), new hot spot sponsored by Russian Standard vodka, on the first floor of the Palais de Tokyo modern art museum. The launch coincides with new art expo A MAN ON THE MOON, a collection of photos of planet earth taken by astronauts from the moon. Pass through the fabulous expo on your way to the new club, open from 10 pm-2 am nightly through Sept. 20th. The NY loft meets Berlin garage club interior leads to a terrace with an extraordinary view of the Eiffel Tower. It’s the same Parisian hipsters you’ll see at Le Baron or the Cha Cha club (both locations are partners in the ephemeral spot), but in a different, more “cultural” space.

6. “The Elegance of the Hedgehog”



Muriel Barberry’s book, currently translated to the big screen in French theaters in “Le Hérisson” starring Josiane Balasko, is the best book I’ve read in a long time. The moving yet humorous story is ostensibly esoteric, but in fact, a very accessible, relatable tale of a concierge in a bourgeois Parisian building.

7. Glou




I’m stuck on this recently-opened restaurant like GLOU! (Sorry, the pun was just too evident to pass up, and it doesn’t work in French unfortunately.) This new hot spot, opened by former Regal – French food magazine – founder Julien Fouin and colleagues Ludo and Herve, is an affordable, casual and tres chic restaurant in my favorite neighborhood, le “haut Marais.” Right on the rue Vieille du Temple, Glou offers a wide assortment of dishes to please every palate – quality hams, a great cheeseburger, fish, and even a vegetarian plate for non-carnivores. Their gazpacho is a refreshing and flavorful pause on a hot summer day and, while the food is very basic with not much culinary adventure, all of the ingredients are high quality and tasty – think: melt-in-your-mouth bufala mozzarella with tomatoes so fresh they appear to have been just plucked from a country garden, a creamy “organic, raw milk” rice pudding and their original “Glou yogurt” for dessert. You can sit upstairs, or downstairs perched on stools around a big table or even on one of just three small tables outside. Glou is a great place for a “tête-à-tête” catch-up session with a friend or a fun place for a big group. I discovered this new spot not long ago and have been GLOUed to my seat there every since !

8. White chocolate wasabi (Ze Kitchen Galerie)




William Ledeuil’s white chocolate wasabi dessert is officially my new favorite dessert in Paris (and, perhaps, the world.) In fact, Ze Kitchen Galerie is currently at the top of my Paris restaurants list (I’d give Les Fables de la Fontaine the runner up spot). Ledeuil’s inventive cooking is a modern twist on classical French dishes with an Asian accent. Ze food is zelicious ! The name aptly describes the ambiance inside – an open kitchen with glass windows in the back, and modern art paintings all along the walls. The food is on the pricier side, but for a Michelin-starred restaurant, it’s actually quite reasonable. A yellow tomato gazpacho added intense flavor to my appetizer of fried creamy burrata balls – the most gourmet, and delicious, “mozzarella” stick you can imagine. The chicken and shrimp ravioli are also delectable. The duck main course is cooked two ways – one confit and the other a filet – the meat is cooked in an aromatic teriyaki-like sauce and swims on the plate alongside fresh seasonal vegetables. I also recently enjoyed the main course “rouget” (red mullet fish) served over an Asian-tinted mashed potatoes, quite possibly the best mashed potatoes I’ve ever had, with ginger, olives and other unidentifiable sauces and vegetables. Every mouthful is different, and satisfying. And then… dessert ! Yes, white chocolate and wasabi is indeed an odd couple – white and creamy chocolate meets Asian-infused spicy wasabi. It’s like the John Lennon-Yoko Ono of desserts. Green tea, pistachio sauce, torrone nougat, vanilla, fresh strawberries and crunchy cookies complement the flavors, all topped with a meringue. Special mention to our Brazilian waiter [insert name here if you know him or are him!] currently manning the tables, who is friendly and lovely and, when a slight confusion over our main course order occurred, offered us another dessert on the house that rivaled my white chocolate-wasabi favorite. Dessert number deux was a strawberry and passion fruit “cappuccino” with fres chunks of strawberries, a cream sauce and topped with vanilla ice cream. It was a symphony of flavors in my mouth – creamy, yet fruity and light at the same time. After the meal, take a walk along the Seine, right around the corner. As it is, it’s tough to get a reservation at Ze Kitchen, so please make sure to call me before to call in to make sure you don’t take my table, merci beaucoup.

9. L’Orangerie





I fell in love with Claude Monet during my first trip to Paris when I was younger (yes, can you imagine a bigger cliché?) and it’s been a long love affair ever since. Monet’s nymphéas can be found at the recently-renovated L’Orangerie, complete with other impressionist works. Definitely a must-see.



A picnic in the Tuileries gardens (see photo) followed by a tour of l'Orangerie is the perfect plan for a hot summer afternoon in Paris.

10. THE FRENCH GOVERNMENT



I finally have my carte de séjour! Vive la France ! It expires in March, but still a victory after many days/weeks/months of suffering. Paris, je t’aime !

R.I.P. Michael Jackson

I spent the day on various France 24 shows commenting on the death of the legendary pop star.
Here are a few clips:

In English:

http://www.france24.com/en/20090626-jackson-jackson-fawcett-leffler-akon-chiranjeevi

In French:

http://www.france24.com/fr/20090626-tchoungui-jackson-fawcett-leffler-chiranjeevi-akon

10 Things I Love this Week / June in Paris

1. Frenchie



Cute name. Cute spot. Cute food. And cute chef. What’s not to like? Well, perhaps the limited menu – two appetizers, two main courses and 2 desserts (+ cheese plate) to choose from. But Frenchie, a new petit bistro on a tiny street in the 2nd arrondissement, is almost perfect. Chef owner Gregory Marchand has worked at Gramercy Tavern in NY and with Jamie Olivier in London, before recently settling back into his native country (see: the meaning of “Frenchie”). Marchand changes the menu daily and offers an amazing deal (well, an amazing deal for Paris) of a 19-euro 3-course lunch or a 33-euro 3-course dinner (or 27 euros for two courses). Ask Marchand what he’ll be serving up soon, and even he can’t respond. The chef bases his cuisine on only the freshest market ingredients and adapts his menu to the fruits (and vegetables!) of the season.
On the night I was there, appetizers included an intensely flavorful smoked trout with an avocado sauce, pickled cucumbers, red peppers and dill and a gaspacho, eloquently presented with cherries (yes cherries in a bowl of gaspacho – strange idea at first, but I promise, the flavors just melded together into a gorgeous sweet and savory melody in my mouth), red peppers and croutons which floated to the top when the waiter then poured the soup into the bowl.
Next up was a choice of honey-glazed pork with zucchini flowers and eggplant or a “maigre” fish, a white fish, served with mushrooms and onions in a thick sauce.
Finally, for dessert, a cheese plate, a chocolate tart, and, my pick of course, a panna cotta with blackberry crumble. I have had my share of panna cotta in my day, and this was absolutely the most memorable – light yet incredibly creamy, with just a hint of basil infusion.
You can peek your head in and watch Marchand at work – a “Ratatouille” moment in a très French kitchen, complemented by Marchand’s Anglo-Saxon savvy.
Definitely a must-visit if you’re in Paris – allez y ! (But please don’t take my seat, it’s a small venue and I want to be sure to get a reservation!)

2. Orson Hodge, Dr. Addison Montgomery and Aunt Becky





I spent my week with Orson Hodge, Dr. Addison Montgomery, Jack Shephard and Melinda Gordon… not to mention the Prince of Monaco (see below). I schmoozed with my favorite small-screen stars at the 49th Annual Monte-Carlo TV Festival, including talent from “Desperate Housewives” (Kyle Maclachlan aka Orson Hodge), « Lost » (Matthew Fox alias Jack), “Private Practice”/ “Grey’s Anatomy” (Kate Walsh aka Dr. Addison Montgomery) and “Ghost Whisperer” (Jennifer Love Hewitt aka Melinda Gordon).
OK, so admittedly, Monte-Carlo isn’t the most exciting city in the world (I’d say the average age is about 97 and the average wealth about €10.6 million ?) but TV stars came out for the occasion nonetheless. All except for Jessica Szhor of “Gossip Girl” who cancelled last-minute in a very unprofessional, diva-like coup. That’s OK Jessica, nobody likes Vanessa’s character anyway. After years of growing up with “Full House,” I got to meet “Aunt Becky” aka Lori Loughlin who is now starring in “90210” opposite Rob Estes, who was also in town to promote the series. Both Loughlin and Estes were charming, and didn’t hold back in interviews. “Any time any one is talking about my penis, I’m happy,” Estes said of one scene in “90210” where said body part is mentioned in conversation. The best part was when another journalist asked about the rumored tension on set between Shannen Dougherty and Jennie Garth. The response:
Lori Loughlin: “They were cordial.”
Rob Estes: “They don’t like each other. It was uncomfortable.”
LL: “But they do their work and they’re fine.”
RE: “But they don’t like each other.”





I spoke with Eric Close who, like me, was very disappointed to learn that “Without a Trace,” on of the best shows on TV, was recently cancelled by CBS.
Jennifer Love Hewitt couldn’t let go of new beau Jamie Kennedy’s arm for more than .004 seconds. And what is this about calling her “fat”? She was teeny tiny (well her waist at least, I can’t say the same for her bosom) – confirmed. Kim Kardashian stood out like a sore thumb in her itsy bitsy, booty-hugging dresses. And Matthew Fox won the award for least well-behaved. The actor was vague and looked bored during the press conference, refused to answer any questions about the series he was there specifically to promote (“Lost”), and even insisted on conducting one interview lying down on a couch. The actor also forced the entire Europe1 radio crew to bring all of their equipment down a flight of stairs and completely change their recording studio around because Fox refused to walk up just a few steps to their HQ for the interview. I’d say he’s “lost” his manners, wouldn’t you?
Kyle Maclachlan (aka Orson Hodge) (aka Trey from “Sex & The City”) had a great sense of humor. When asked about how “Desperate Housewives” has changed his life, he responded in jest: “I’m very happy, and I used to be very depressed.”
He also mentioned how working on such female-dominated shows has been beneficial. “It has been mindblowing. I know things about women now…”
Kate Walsh, aka “Addison” from both “Grey’s Anatomy” and her new spinoff show “Private Practice,” was lovely. She’s not only tall and lithe and well-spoken, but also got to be married to DR MCDREAMY !!! Does it get any better than that ? Well, maybe McSteamy … I’d take him too.
Huge thank you to the Fairmont Monte-Carlo for a wonderful stay. With a special high five to the omelet lady at the INCREDIBLE breakfast buffet. The buffet was served every morning on the 7th floor with an insane view of the ocean, under the sun, and with a fabulous selection of breads, pastries, fresh fruit, yogurts, cheeses, pancakes and omelets. Really – is there anything better than an amazing buffet breakfast under the sun with the view of the ocean … and a prince not far away ?
Xoxo
Her Royal Highness Princess Rebecca Leffler of Monaco (has a nice ring to it, doesn’t it?)

3. The Prince of Monaco




The Prince of Monaco, aka His Serene Highness Prince Albert is officially stalking me. Not only does he follow me to dinner twice a year (once for the “Monaco Forum of Cinema and Literature” and once for the closing night of the Monte-Carlo TV Festival), but he even followed me to lunch on the last day of the Festival at MY hotel, the Fairmont. The view from L’Horizon restaurant on the 7th floor is divine (see photo of me hard at work there) – a panoramic view of clear blue ocean water and boats gliding past in the distance. The prince had an even better view – of me ! Lucky guy. When I met him later that night at the dinner, we talked for a bit. I said: “Hello, Your Serene Highness…” He said: “You can call me Aaaaaaal” (No, he didn’t but how great would that have been? Prince Albert singing Paul Simon in the middle of a gala dinner.) I told him how I enjoy my twice-yearly stays in Monaco, and he said he is happy to have me. I mentioned we’d both had lunch at the Fairmont earlier in the day. He said, “It’s nice there, isn’t it?” And I responded – to a PRINCE mind you – “Well, if it’s good enough for the Prince of Monaco, it’s good enough for me!” Cue to the red face and thought bubble: “OMG I just said that to the PRINCE!” Luckily, Al is très cool and laughed and continued the conversation.

4. Nathalie Dubois’ Monte-Carlo TV Festival Gift Suite at the Hotel de Paris

Check out this video of my tour of Dubois’ fabulous gift suite !

http://www.gala.fr/gala_tv/l_oeil_sur_eux/visitez_le_gift_lounge_de_l_hotel_de_paris_a_monaco

5. Top Chef Masters



Just when I thought Top Chef was the ONLY reality TV show I’d ever watch (and like), Top Chef Masters comes around. It’s my guilty pleasure du jour. Not only can each episode stand on its own, but every time, we’re introduced to the crème-de-la-crème of international chefs and different themes each time. I mean, where else can you watch a famous chef make a risotto in a dorm room or serve up wild boar 3 ways ? My current life dream is to be a guest judge on Top Chef Masters. Or Top Chef, let’s start with that. Are you listening, Tom Colicchio?

6. Le Grand Journal’s compilation CD aka “Le Grand B.O. du Grand Journal”




Feeling like a hobo, like a rolling stone? Nothing’s gonna stop you … from buying the new compilation mix CD from France’s BEST nightly TV show “Le Grand Journal”. The CD features the music from the opening credits of the show, including Charlie Winston’s “Like a Hobo.” Other fabulous singles include Sliimy’s “Wake Up” (see: my obsession with this song in previous blog posting below), Ladyhawke’s “Paris is Burning” and Q-Tip’s “Move.” It’s a great mix of popular songs from all genres – everything from Lily Allen’s catchy “The Fear” to Oasis’ “I’m Outta Time” and Franz Ferdinand’s “Ulysses.” Listen to Reverend and the Makers’ “He Said He Loved Me” while you’re taking a shower (I do) or MGMT’s “Kids” while cooking dinner or Empire of the Sun’s “Walking on a Dream” when you’re getting ready for bed. If I had a car in Paris, this would be the perfect driving mix – so buy the CD, then come over and pick me up so we can go for a spin ok ? I said, “Tonight”! (Yuksek’s song, also on the CD) “Oh Yeah!” (Housse de Racket) (OK I think you get the idea…)

7. Grom




It might be a terrible idea to spread around this left-bank find since the line at this gelateria is still relatively quick compared to Amorino’s queue around the corner, but I just couldn’t post a blog in summer without talking about my favorite part of sunny sky days … namely, Grom gelato. The originally Italian, all natural ice cream line is already the biggest warm weather hit in NY, and is now in Paris. The little shop on the rue de Seine serves up organic, original flavors that melt in your mouth (literally. It’s gelato. That’s what it’s made for.) My favorites include Nocciola (hazelnut), Torroncino (with fresh chunks of nougat) and the simple Vaniglia (vanilla). But for you chocolate lovers out there, there’s also a dark chocolate sorbet, a dark chocolate ice cream and a Stracciatella with chocolate chips. Or, for a lighter mix on a hot day, the milky coconut sorbet coupled with a scoop of melon, strawberry, raspberry or peach sorbet is just perfect. Flavors change depending on the season, as does the length of the line outside. Insider info: If you don’t feel like waiting on line or walking with a cone, you can sit at Da Rosa across the street and, while you’ll pay twice as much for the same gelato, you can eat it in a cup at a table as you people-watch on the bustling rue de Seine.

8. Whatever Works



Woody Allen + Larry David. Do I need to say more?

…. Well no, but I will of course. I just can’t curb my enthusiasm for Woody Allen’s latest film. It’s definitely the most Woody Allenesque in years – pure neurotic Jewish guy in NY humor. The mismatched love affair between David and Evan Rachel Wood somehow works. Despite mediocre reviews across the board, I recommend the film. It’s far from Allen’s best, but it’s entertaining, darkly funny and speckled with an all-star cast that also includes Ed Begley Jr., Patricia Clarkson and the très cute British actor Henry Cavill. David’s Boris Yelnikoff is sort of an exaggerated, less Hollywood version of David’s character on “Curb Your Enthusiasm,” but David fans and Allen fans won’t be (too) disappointed. Whatever.

9. Johnny Depp



Johnny Depp is simply uber-cool in Michael Mann’s gangster flick “Public Enemies.” While I’m not a huge fan of the genre, Depp is silky smooth in the bank robber story also featuring Billy Crudup, Christian Bale and Marion Cotillard. It’s bang bang boom boom gunshots all around, but there’s a moving story lying somewhere in between all of the blood and darkness. There’s a lot of DEPPth if you will…

10. The ridiculous idea of Carla Bruni in a Woody Allen movie




“"I'm sure she would be wonderful. She's got charisma, she's already acted so she's not unknown to an audience. There are a lot of ways I could use her though I don't have a story for her at the moment," Allen said of the French first lady in an interview with France’s RTL radio, adding: "But I'll certainly talk to her about it and I'll ask her if she's interested." If she’s not, Woody, my number is 06 …

Star-spangled Dinner

Star-spangled Dinner
Dinner with the Obamas in Paris
Barack Obama followed me to dinner last night. Seriously. Out of all of the restaurants in Paris, I chose to make a reservation on Saturday night at Les Fables de la Fontaine, a Christian Constant bistro on the rue Saint Dominique, restaurant-filled street in the 7th arrondissement. After arriving almost ½ hour late thanks to our deviated taxi route due to the fact that nearly every street was blocked off to traffic because of the Obamas’ arrival, we strolled up to the rue Saint Dominique only to be greeted by a huge crowd of people, US secret service men in suits with earphones and pins and what I imagine constituted at least 30% of the national French police force. Policemen yelled out orders and forced the curious Parisians and nearby tourists to move to the sidewalk to accommodate Obama’s arrival. With high security outside, Obama’s entourage of cars arrived in front of La Fontaine de Mars, a casual French bistro, as he was escorted inside. After waiting outside, unable to walk down the street to our restaurant for more than one hour, I finally began to start intense negotiations with every Secret Service man and French policeman I could find, and was constantly calling the restaurant to figure out how we might be able to get inside to dine. Finally, the restaurant manager calls to tell me “There are American Secret Service men on their way to get you.” I laughed – “yeah right, of course they are.” Then, all of a sudden, a French policeman in full body armor, comes running towards us, points to me, pulls me out of the crowd and under the barricade with the two friends I was with (shout out to Judy and Karen, the adventuresome duo in question) and escorted us personally to the restaurant, as the crowd watched in awe. We sat down in the cute bistro – it was like we’d entered the Twilight Zone, everything was calm, we sat and had a very delicious, enjoyable meal, while the Obamas ate next door and police and soldiers lined the streets as the helicopter circled above. You’d think that since I not only voted for him, but also pay US taxes which took the Obama family to France, he’d call and say “hey, come on over and join us for dessert” right ? In fact, Obama wanted desperately to come and speak to me, but, with all of the Secret Service men and French police guarding me, he wasn’t able to (poor guy). Don’t worry, Barack, just be sure to call me next time you’re here. And please, can you perhaps just accept Sarkozy’s invitation and dine with Carla and him someplace private? Your “laid-back intimate family dinner” turned the entire city upside down! However, Mr. O, I’d like to thank you. For the first time in quite some time, I was very proud to be an American. I even sang the star-spangled banner as your entourage of cars rode by. As one American woman nearby said of the swarms of people waiting outside, “If it were Bush eating in there, nobody would be here.” I especially enjoyed when everyone in Les Fables walked outside to try and catch a glimpse of the Obamas leaving dinner and a French police officer came over and said “Monsieur, Le Président would like you to please go back inside.” Amazing. How often do I get asked to do something by “Monsieur, le Président” ? (not often, contrary to popular belief). So I’d like to thank my President, the US Secret Service, the French Police Nationale, the lovely staff of Les Fables de la Fontaine … and the (very cute, mind you) French police officer that pulled me out of the crowd and escorted us to our table. G-d Bless America ! (Land that I sometimes forget I love.)

In honor of last night, I’ve composed my own version of the US national anthem.
The Star-Spangled Dinner
Oh, say! can you see by the Obama’s early light 

What so annoying we waited for while his 400-car entourage swept through the city so he and Michelle and his kids could catch a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower gleaming…
Whose broad Secret Service men and bright bodyguards, made us perilously fight
To walk down the street to our restaurant, while the crowds outside were so gallantly screaming,
And the mean old French manager of the restaurant next door’s red glare,
the Obama-copter circling in the air, 

Gave proof through the night that I still do care (about America): Oh, say! does that star-spangled banner yet wave 

O'er the land of the French and the home of the Rebecca Leffler…
In Les Fables de la Fontaine, dimly seen through the mists of the deep rue Saint Dominique,
Where the fish is cooked deliciously, 

What is that which the breeze, o'er the towering steep of la Fontaine de Mars, 

'Tis the Obamas ! Oh, long may they wave (to me from across the street)
O'er the land of the French and the home of the Rebecca Leffler… 
And this be our motto: "In Obama is our trust": 
And the star-spangled banner in triumph shall wave 

O'er the land of the French and the home of the Rebecca Leffler…. 






The Restaurant of the day award goes not to la Fontaine de Mars (I don’t think they’ll be needing my publicity anymore seeing as the President of the United States just had dinner there, that’s definitely a better ad than paying thousands for Superbowl spot, way to go Fontaine), but to Les Fables de la Fontaine. Owned by Christian Constant, the French chef who pretty much runs every restaurant on the rue Saint Dominique – from his famed, more fancy and pricey le Violon d’Ingres to the more casual Café Constant or even more casual Les Cocottes (my favorite steak and potatoes meal on the left bank – eat that, l’Entrecôte!), Constant has a restaurant for everyone. Les Fables is a tiny place – I think the room can fit a maximum of 22 people – with a big heart. The staff are all warm and welcoming and one literally feels like one is dining in someone’s home (on a typical night that is, I can’t say the secret service and helicopters typically encircle my Parisian apartment on the average night). Les Fables specializes in seafood and offers a mostly fish-based menu, with a few options for pure carnivores as well. We started with an amuse-bouche of a parmesan cream with a red pepper coulis and croutons – divine. Since it was late (see: waiting outside for more than an hour just to walk down the street, merci Obama and co.), we skipped right to the main courses, though I must say the crispy Langoustines I had the last time I was there, still on the menu, are delicious. I had a grilled sea bass in a cream of pea sauce with grilled artichokes, a tuna sauce and parmesan cheese – incredible, especially wiped clean with the amazing mini-baguettes served to accompany the meal. Dessert was a vanilla cream custard crème-brûlée style on top of sugar biscuits with a pistachio sauce, followed by a fabulous hazelnut macaron. While I hesitate to share this spot (make sure you don’t take my seat if I want a reservation!), it is definitely one of the better and reasonably priced restaurants in Paris. Bon appétit !